What does a lip pigment have to satisfy beyond the CI list?

Three things on top of permitted use: migration resistance, odour, and the narrower lip list itself.

Permitted use is the gate. Lip products are partly ingested, and every market runs a shorter list for lips than for face. A CI number that is fine in a blusher can be prohibited on lips, so check the lip list for the target market instead of reusing a face formula.

Migration is the experience. A lipstick carries a lot of wax and oil, and a pigment with poor migration resistance bleeds past the lip line, transfers to cups and stains. Lakes resist migration better than dyes; inorganic pigments such as the iron oxides resist it very well but read muted.

Odour is the one people forget. Some pigments carry a faint smell that is amplified at the lips, and impurities can react with fragrance to produce an off note. Assess it on its own during sampling rather than through the fragrance.

A long-wear, non-transfer claim is not a pigment decision alone — the film former and the treatment have to work with it.